科万

Cobán is the capital of Alta Verapaz, set in green, often misty hills where coffee and cardamom are grown. A fine drizzle the locals call chipi-chipi is part of the climate. The El Calvario church sits at the top of a long stairway above the centre, and the Vivero Verapaz nursery grows native orchids.

Most travellers stop here on the way to Lanquín and the pools of Semuc Champey, a few hours further by road. On the highway up from Guatemala City, the Biotopo del Quetzal protects cloud forest where the national bird lives.